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The meat industry, a hotspot in the spread of Covid , has not felt this much heat since Upton Sinclair wrote The Jungle.
Food has also become a focal point for concerns about US-China decoupling and the broader deglobalisation of supply chains.
China recently threatened to boycott imported salmon after allegations that it could be linked to new cases of Covid European countries including Italy and France are doubling down on protections for local producers.
In the US, there are calls to support local agriculture and small farmers, not just for health and national security but also economic reasons. This reflects a crisis-driven shift in focus from efficiency to resilience.
Agriculture has become incredibly efficient. US farmers have nearly tripled their per acre production over the past 70 years. But this has come with tremendous consolidation in most areas of the industry, so that a handful of companies now control everything from meat processing to grain production.
There are also two entirely separate supply chains — one supporting supermarkets, the other restaurants and institutions such as schools and hospitals.
When demand in the second supply chain collapsed thanks to pandemic-related shutdowns, grocery prices in the first supply chain surged on higher demand, even as farmers destroyed crops that could not be easily funnelled from restaurants to retail outlets.
That is the downside of efficiency and specialisation. Efficiency is also responsible for iceberg lettuce, one of the most ubiquitous and tasteless vegetables ever created.
I cannot believe that anybody really wants to eat it, except as a vehicle for scooping up blue cheese in a wedge salad.
But it has been a major cash crop in America for most of the last 50 years because the lettuce heads travel well and survive in long supply chains for months.
Yet iceberg is mostly water and has few nutrients. That underscores the fact that while productivity has increased, US farmers are encouraged to plant commodity crops rather than fruits and vegetables needed for the country to have a healthy diet — the kind that provides better immunity from diseases such as Covid Instead, Americans waste fuel shipping items like iceberg lettuce all over the country.
Before the pandemic, US Democrats had begun to complain about Big Food , partly as a way to attract votes in Midwestern swing states where many small farmers have gone bankrupt.
But, in the face of Covid, resiliency and localisation in agriculture has become a bipartisan issue. Follow FT's live coverage and analysis of the global pandemic and the rapidly-evolving economic crisis here.
The question is how to make it affordable. Smaller producers who supply high-end restaurants in big cities with premium goods have taken a huge hit during the shutdowns.
Basically, we need to find a middle ground between 19th-century agriculture and modern industrial farming — between efficient and resilient.
That is where a new crop of high-tech agricultural start-ups could help. The farms grow fruits and vegetables on giant walls that can be placed anywhere, since light and water are controlled by technology.
That allows families in urban neighbourhoods, such as Compton or Oakland, California, to access fresh produce. According to chief executive Matt Barnard, the company uses 99 per cent less land and 95 per cent less water to grow pesticide-free crops that are not genetically modified.
The results are also similar to the best of what a shopper might find in a local farmers market. Better food, higher paying jobs, less concentration — this is the kind of localism we need.
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